Chemical Peels

What are Chemical Peels?

As we age, the outer layer of our skin begins to show the symptoms of aging skin - fine to deep lines and wrinkles, age spots, crepiness and discoloration. Chemical peels are primarily used as an anti-aging treatment for the skin. The procedure involves the application of a chemical solution to the facial skin to improve the surface texture by removing its damaged outer layers revealing the softer, younger looking skin beneath. 

Chemical peels are a radical procedure though not as invasive as cosmetic surgery, which can be an effective anti-aging treatment for facial blemishes like age spots, wrinkles and uneven pigmentation.

Can chemical peels be done on any skin type?

Chemical peels can be done on nearly every skin surface. However, if you have sensitive skin or have a darker complexion, you will want to talk to your chosen physician at length about the results that you can expect. Some people can experience scarring and discoloration after a chemical facial peel. The exact formula of a chemical peel can be adjusted by an experienced technician to ensure that the treatment matches your skin type and your skin problem. Proper clinical care of this sort should ensure that any side effects are kept to a minimum.

What type of chemical peel should I have?

There are several kinds of chemical peels varying in strength depending on what you are trying to achieve and the depth of peel required to achieve it:

Light Peels: Alphahydroxy Acids or AHA’s – glycolic, lactic or fruit acids, the mildest of the peel formulas producing light peels that are useful for improving skin texture, assisting with acne issues and correcting pigmentation problems like age spots. Various concentrations of AHA's can be applied weekly or at longer intervals to obtain the best result and AHA may be used as an advance treatment for a TCA peel.

Medium Peels: Trichloroacetic Acids or TCA's – TCA can be used in many concentrations, most commonly used as an anti-aging treatment to treat finer lines and wrinkles. TCA's also work on correcting minor pigment issues, and less prominent skin blemishes. Results are less dramatic and not as long-lasting as a phenol peel and more than one treatment will probably be necessary.

Deep Peel: Phenol - Phenols are usually used to treat deep or coarse facial wrinkles, areas of blotchy or sun-damaged skin and pre-cancerous skin conditions. Results from phenol peels are most dramatic and long lasting and only one treatment is usually necessary. Permanent changes to the skin will occur which will probably include skin lightening. Phenols will usually only be used on the face since scarring can result if used on the neck or body.

You need to have a detailed discussion at the clinic with the person performing your procedure to make sure the peel chosen delivers the right results for you and works best for your skin type.

What can I do to prepare for a chemical peel?

To help prepare your skin and get the best possible result, you may be asked by the physician or technician performing the chemical facial peel to apply a high strength vitamin A prescription cream like Retin A or an AHA cream to your skin prior to the procedure. This is particularly likely if you are having a TCA peel. This will help to thin out the skin in order for the TCA peel to work effectively. For blotchy skin or pigmentation issues like age spots, you may be asked to apply a bleaching agent prior to treatment.  Pre-treatment preparation may take as long as one month depending on the advice of your clinic.

Does it hurt?

People have different tolerances of pain but undoubtedly applying a chemical to your face is not a comfortable procedure to go through. Having said that, there really shouldn't be a need for anesthetic during the procedure, though some clinics may offer you a sedative to keep you calm. 

AHAs are the simplest of the chemical peels and can be done over a lunch hour, since there is no need for extended recovery time. Bear in mind though that you may well need many such treatments to get the result you want. TCAs may require a little more rest and recuperation at home and Phenols will require the most extended recovery time which will probably include time off work.

You can expect that your skin will be tender to the touch following any of the chemical facial peel treatments, but this clears up quickly when you follow the post treatment instructions and apply any topical ointments as directed.

How will my skin react initially?

Applying a strong chemical to the delicate skin on your face is a radical thing to do and your skin will react to the trauma accordingly. These are some of the initial skin reactions that most people experience:

• Dryness
• Flakiness
• Swollenness
• Scaling, peeling
• Scabbing

The range and depth of these reaction will increase with the depth of peel. For all peels you should expect your skin to feel at least tender and probably painful to the touch - at least initially. You will be advised to take over the counter pain killers to deal with this during the healing process. For a phenol peel, a heavy layer of petroleum jelly will be applied to your skin immediately after the treatment and full recovery may take several months. 

For TCA and Phenol peels you will be advised to avoid sun exposure completely for a period of time. Phenol peels rob the skin of its ability to make pigment and this will be a permanent change. As a result, your skin will be highly susceptible to skin damage for the rest of your life with the need to wear high SPF at all times. 

With a TCA peel, your healed skin will be able to produce pigment as usual but you will need to avoid skin exposure for many months after your treatment. 

What are the risks and possible side effects?

As with any cosmetic procedure, there are risks of infection. The deeper the peel, the higher the risk of complications or adverse side effects occurring. Even though TCA is a lighter peel than a phenol peel, unintended color changes can occur in your skin. Phenol can cause undesired cosmetic results such as uneven pigment changes. There are gentler phenol peels available if the risk of this is a concern.

Phenol peels can also pose a special risk for anyone with a history of heart disease and it is important that your physician or technician is aware of any such problems before treatment is started.

Is it dangerous? 

Overall, a chemical peel should not be dangerous and the light to medium peels can be repeated over time. However, any radical treatment may be highly risky if not performed by a competent, qualified and experienced technician in the proper clinical surroundings.

If you are considering treatment in the US, you should be aware that protective laws vary depending on the state, with some states allowing anyone to perform even the strongest chemical peels without a medical degree.  Some states regulate the level of peels that technicians as opposed to doctors can perform. 

You should also be aware that in the US and elsewhere, phenol and TCA peels have been offered as wonder anti-aging treatments by inadequately trained people with little experience of carrying out the procedure.  

In such circumstances a chemicals peel would be a dangerous procedure and you need to make absolutely certain of the training, qualifications and experience of the personnel in the clinic you choose. 

What will it cost?

Depending on the level of your skin damage, the cost of a chemical peel can range from $200 (for light peels) up to $6000 (for deeper and extended treatments).